Installation guide and FAQs
Pre-laying inspection and responsibility
We produce our solid wood flooring in a controlled environment. Our operatives take the utmost care to season or dry the wood and select sawn planks which are only suitable for the highest quality of wooden flooring, however, wood is a living, moving entity and it is possible that small splits, cracks and minor warping can occur during transit. In some cases and certain woods, small cracks can enhance the natural beauty of the finished product (antique finishes) but we must put the responsibility on the customer to fully inspect the flooring pieces prior to laying as an important part of our warranty conditions. Any faults beyond minor or acceptable must be reported without delay to our customer services department.
Important note: solid wood flooring must never be laid in wet rooms, swimming pool surrounds, saunas or bathrooms.
Requirements for the sub-floor
All sub-floors must be prepared for installation in accordance with normal sub-floor preparation procedures and accepted tolerances according to the flooring industry rules. Prior to installation of the solid wood flooring, the following points must be considered:
Solid wood flooring must never be laid on top of electrically heated under floor heating systems. Hot water under floor heating is permissible.
Moisture test. Testing should be conducted using a CM device and should not exceed the following moisture levels: cement based concrete – 2%CM, for anhydrite concrete 0.5%CM.
Flatness test. Maximum un-evenness should be no greater than 3mm per linear metre.
Maximum loading. Wooden batten must be kiln dried to CM 12-14%. Placing should be at intervals of 400mm in normal areas and 300mm in the areas where heavy furniture may be positioned.
Cleanliness. The sub-floor must be clean of screws, nails, plaster and general dust or debris.
Environment. It is necessary to ensure the room the following conditions, before, during and after installation of the solid wood flooring: Temperature minimum 18 C. Floor surface minimum 15C
Sub-floor advice
It is possible to install all kinds of solid wood flooring on any sub-floor that meets the conditions above. These may include concrete base, timber battens or joists, plywood, MDF and existing laminate or cork floorings, if it is preferable or simpler to leave the existing floor in place. However, it is not permissible to install onto carpets, textile, electric element under-floor heating systems, ceramic tiles or natural stone flags. Essentially, the sub floor must not be damp or permit rising humidity from the ground. Concrete sub-floors should be covered in a suitable overlapping damp-proof membrane. Typically, a two-part epoxy membrane or Aquastop from company EWIFOAM®.
Preparation for installation
Before the installation begins, it is necessary to acclimatise the flooring to the exact room conditions, bearing in mind the above points regarding temperature and humidity. Boards should be kept in the unopened packaging and lain flat, directly on the sub-floor, no closer than 50cm to the walls, for a period of 7 days. Generally, solid wood flooring gives the best impression when laid in the same direction as light coming in through windows. However, particular room shape may make it more desirable and economical to lay adjacent to incoming light and particularly important, if the flooring is to be laid onto joists, it is essential the boards are laid at 90 degrees to the joists. If laying onto a non-load bearing sub-floor surface, such as plywood or chipboard, it is essential to check below to recognise the direction of the supporting joists, should they be an integral part of the supporting construction.
Layout of the boards
Start by measuring the width of the room (adjacent dimension to the direction of the boards). Divide the width by the width of the boards purchased to determine the number of rows. If the last row will come out at less than 60cm, it will be necessary to cut the first row along the length, ensuring a balance of dimensions. Of course the first row must not be less than 60cm also.
Please keep in mind the requirement for expansion gaps, this is especially important for floating floor installation (not nailed or glued). All wood, being of organic nature, is subject to expansion and contraction due to the effect of temperature and humidity changes. Plan the flooring and fit accordingly with a 15mm expansion gap all round, including walls, door frames staircases and central heating pipes. If this point is ignored, exceptional weather circumstances can cause the whole floor to lift or arch as the expanded wood will have nowhere to naturally spread. As a result of contraction, the gap needs to be covered. We supply also a wide range of skirting boards and pipe covers which will cover these gaps. In the case where the floor may butt against an existing floor area (like ceramic tile fireplace surrounds), a range of metallic strips can be found in your local DIY or hardware shop.
Inspect the boards for any damage caused during transit and take a moment to identify the respective sides and ends of the boards for which is the tongue and which is the groove edge feature. Always begin laying the boards with the longitudinal groove closest to the wall and commencing in the left corner of the room. In the case where boards need to be cut lengthways (per above note), ensure the waste part is cut from the groove side. Do not discard this piece as it may be possible to use it as the final row of boards. It is strongly recommended to fit 15mm spacers between the board and the wall to maintain the correct expansion gap.
Advice for glue-down application
For concrete floors, we recommend the application of an epoxy surface membrane such as Screedmaster Sealdeck from the specialist adhesive company Bostik Ltd. This can be painted on and has an approximate coverage of 20 sq metres for a 4.77 kg dual container, per application. To achieve necessary degrees of protection, it is important to use the following table: for 85% dryness use 1 coat, For 85% – 92% dryness use 2 coats. For 92% - 97% use 3 coats. Check the Bostik Screedmaster web site for application notes and local distributors.
Advice for nail-down application
Wooden joists, ply board, particle board and any wooden surfaces must be kiln dried to below the maximum humidity of 12 – 14%. Joists must be at intervals of 400mm for normal use or 300mm for where heavy loads may be positioned. Lay the first row of planks at a position of 15mm from the longest straight wall. The boards must follow the contours of the wall and be laid at right angles to the joists. Follow the instructions as mentioned above in the Layout of the boards. Hidden nail the first and final row of boards at 200mm intervals, inserting the nail at an angle of 45 degrees through the tongue. Subsequent rows of boards should be nailed at intervals of 200 to 400mm. Always stagger the rows of boards at intervals of more than 400mm and this applies also the starting a new row, the first piece must be longer than 400mm.
Advice for peel and stick underlay floating floor
Peel and Stick must only be laid on top of a dry, firm, flat and dust-free surface. Start by rolling out the underlay at 90 degrees to the direction of the floor installation with the polythene side upwards. Peel the polythene membrane back from the wall where the first rows of boards are to be fitted. Be careful to only peel back 90% of the width of the first row of flooring and maintain the 15mm expansion gap as mentioned above in the Layout of the boards. Never touch the exposed adhesive surface. Next, add the additional loose membrane which can normally be found in the pack with the shiny side face down on the adhesive. Fold the membrane back with the crease facing the wall. The membrane should fold out into the room leaving enough material to grasp after the first row of boards has been installed. Install the first row ensuring the boards fit tightly together and the row is maintained in a straight line. When the first row is installed, it is the time to remove the loose membrane. Grasp the spare material and gently peel back the membrane maintaining pressure on the flooring to keep its correct position. As soon as the boards make contact with the membrane, it will no longer be possible to adjust the positioning. Put the loose membrane away to one side. Depending on the width of the room, it may be necessary to reuse the loose membrane. Continue to install subsequent rows of boards laying them on top of the folded membrane and once in place, peel away the membrane from the underlay, one row at a time.
Caution about room humidity
Natural wood is a living, moving product of nature. The biggest enemy of wood is dampness. Although certain woods are more resistant to damp than others, such as Robinie (False Acacia) which is ideal for terrace decking, internal flooring woods will suffer due to high levels of humidity or dampness that is prolonged and has no possibility to dry due to trapped moisture. Humidity is also a breeding ground for airborne bacteria and mould growth. Equally, a too dry environment can cause flooring to dry out too much from it’s naturally moisture level, which may result in cracks. For the purposes of long floor life and personal health, always try to maintain the room humidity levels at around 40 to 50%; this is the most comfortable environment for people.
Frequently asked questions
I have checked the packages of flooring prior to laying and noticed that some boards do not match in pattern or hue.
Wood is a natural product and the hue and grain pattern will differ throughout the growth of the tree or from one tree to another. For the purposes of practicality, we will make up packages of flooring from one tree, provided the tree is of sufficient size for the order, but other trees will need to be processed for the larger order to be completed. Different hues and grain will often enhance the appearance of the finished result. After all, we are not trying to replicate the monotony of pattern most often found in laminate flooring. If the required result needs to be completely harmonious, it may be preferential to purchase one of our ranges of coloured flooring, or purchase coloured oils from the OVERMAT company to the colour of your choice.
I have checked the packaging and am satisfied with the hue and grain but I have noticed a number of small splits and/or minor cracks. Should I return the order?
Absolutely not. Providing the surface of the boards is fine, then there is no reason to return the goods. These small irregularities will enhance the general appearance of the finished effect. If however there is surface damage, this will most likely be a case of damage in transit for which you, the customer, have a full right to return the goods. We try to eliminate damage caused in transit by careful handling and packaging but we cannot be held responsible for poor care taken during transportation. Please contact our customer services department if in any doubt about the legitimacy of any claims.
I have opened the packaging to check the boards and noticed that some boards are warped
It is most important to follow the above instructions, particularly the necessity to leave the UNOPENED package in the room to be floored for a period of 7 days to allow for the wood to gently adjust itself to the actual conditions of the room. In most cases, the boards will find their natural flatness, which will be assisted especially if you are installing the floor in a nail-down method.
I have just had my floor professionally laid but when I walk on it, it is squeaking. What has gone wrong?
There can be a large number of reasons for this but most commonly, there is a problem with the underfloor, especially if joists may not be firmly supported or possibly if the joists are more than 400mm apart (300mm where heavy loads are to be positioned). In some cases, squeaking may be the result of the room humidity levels being too high and the boards are becoming too tight to each other. Try to get the room humidity down to 40 to 50% and ensure that when the floor was laid, if using the nail-down method, the nails have been fitted at the correct intervals. One simple remedy may be to apply chalk dust or talcum powder to the joints, this will “lubricate” the edges and allow the boards to move slightly against each other without squeaking.
I have just had my floor professionally laid but it appears to be lifting in some places
Again, there could be a problem with the under floor, especially if joists may not be firmly supported or possibly if the joists are more than 400mm apart (300mm where heavy loads are to be positioned). Also again, in some cases, lifting may be the result of the room humidity levels being too high. Try to get the room humidity down to 40 to 50% and ensure that when the floor was laid, if using the nail-down method, the nails have been fitted at the correct intervals and that the 50mm expansion gap has been maintained all round, including around easily overlooked areas like door frames or central heating pipes. If this is the case, carefully trim the areas where the expansion gap is too small. Of course, it is worth mentioning again that solid wood flooring must never be laid on top of electrically heated under-floor heating systems.
After installation, I have noticed that my floor is “curling”. What is wrong?
Floor boards are cut from different parts of the tree. The core of the tree and the areas closer to the bark may have different tendencies for natural curvature. Our flooring is always dried for the correct period of time and dryness levels appropriate for flooring use. Once again, if the room humidity is outside the proper levels of 40 to 50%, the boards may tend to return to their natural shape as the tree was growing. In nearly every case, this movement is very minor and will enhance the natural effect of the finished product. If this effect is serious or worrying, even after humidity levels are checked and found to be correct, it may be necessary to have the floor professionally sanded “in-situ”. This is the advantage of using solid wood, it can be re-finished a number of times. This does not apply to the thinner engineered flooring that can be purchased usually at lower prices than solid wood flooring.
My floor has been installed for some time but it has developed scratches and dents. This did not happen with my old laminate flooring. Is this normal?
Yes, this is absolutely normal. Small scratches and dents will develop in time but generally, these often add to the natural appearance of the floor. However, to prevent the occurrence of deeper and more serious scratches, try to put felt pads or furniture leg protectors under the legs of chairs and other heavier furniture, also, try to restrict the wearing of outdoor shoes in the house and watch your pets’ claws. It is often a good idea to have a rug in the high traffic area and always try to have a suitable door mat to the main entrance of the house of flat. Eventually, if the appearance of scratches becomes too excessive, it may be necessary to have the floor professionally sanded “in-situ”. This is the advantage of using solid wood, it can be re-finished a number of times. This does not apply to the thinner engineered flooring that can be purchased usually at lower prices than solid wood flooring.
I am a little concerned about how to clean my floor; I don’t want to cause any bleached out areas. What should I use to clean the floor?
Firstly, try to avoid the use of vacuum cleaners as the metal and plastic brush attachment can often cause small scratches. Whenever possible, try to use traditional soft brushes and dustpans. As to cleaning, our partners OVERMAT offers an excellent range of solid wood floor cleansers that are tried and tested on very many types of wooden flooring.